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And after the first few days grocery stores are also open with a reduced holiday schedule.My fave 24 hour chicken pho place stayed open throughout.As the cleaning and improvements went on, about three days before Tet kumquat trees appeared on the backs of motorbikes everywhere, a dutiful delivery of good fortune to families around town.

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I showed him photos from this site, of the food from around the world and the things I had tried in Hanoi and the fabulous tamarind crab in Mui Ne.

He began to try and feed me in the evenings, gesturing that I should join at the table with the rest of my landlady’s husband’s family.

Red lanterns were hung in the gated motorbike parking area and a large Vietnamese flag was installed just outside my room.

Every day I’d come home to a newfound something – a gift basket, a box of cookies, flowers – on the living room table.

My Vietnamese friends insisted that everyone needed to try and fully clean their places before new year’s eve, including any repairs that needed to be made.

In addition, all debts should be paid off to the extent possible.

(In keeping with Vietnamese tradition, the woman usually moves in with the husband’s family, and since my landlord is the eldest in his family, that means living with his parents too.) My landlady herself was a pleasure, the only one of the group to speak English (and she speaks quite well!

), answering my food questions patiently and smiling indulgently as I waxed poetic about a crab soup or streetside snack.

Yes, many of the restaurants are closed for the first few days – some for a full week.

But it was always possible to find food to eat, especially in the backpacker (Pham Ngu Lao) area.

People walked a bit faster, their smiles slightly strained and their thoughts turned inward, visible even to a new visitor like me.

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